Quetico May 2004
Last January the plan for this trip was 12 days with several younger, stronger canoeists. The route was selected with those criteria in mind. So, we obtained an entry permit for French Lake near Atikokan, Ontario. The plan involved a 5 hour van ride via our outfitter in Ely, Minnesota to get us to our put-in on the northern fringes of Quetico Provincial Park. However, in the ensuing weeks everyone who might have gone with us dropped out of the trip for various reasons.
Plan two was a 10 day solo on the same route – still leaving enough time for exploring and base-camping. However, the idea of a solo trip wasn’t Pat’s favorite – and mine neither. This lead to plan three and to the actual itinerary. It would be an 8 day trip and the crew would include the two of us and Leo (of canine persuasion) on his first extended wilderness trip.
Eight days would mean that, in all likelihood, there would be no base camp – we would be traveling every day. Unforeseen delays would extend the trip beyond the planned 8 days. To meet these possible eventualities we packed extra food, more cold weather gear, and a larger tent. Subtly, the trip difficulty had gone from hard to more difficult and the physical ability of the crew had declined. This was to have a significant impact on the kind of trip we experienced.
Our first day was highly eventful. We started our van ride from Ely at 7:30am with Patrick, our driver. It was a blustery day with the temperature hovering in the low 30s. At the Canadian border we were forced to throw away our dog food and purchase more in Canada – there is ban on import of dog food from the U.S. At our put-in we discovered a fire ban for the first several miles of paddling including our first night camping. A very helpful ranger arranged for us to put-in at a point (Stanton Bay) which would allow us to bypass the area of the fire ban. There had been a wind storm the year before resulting in a lot of downed trees. Soon, we were in the canoe battling the waves on Pickerel Lake. Almost immediately, I confused one island for another and we were lost. But, our GPS helped us determine where we were and we ended up camped on a small island and enjoyed steaks and mushrooms for supper.
Over the next several days we struggled to keep on our schedule and still fell a little behind. We made adequate time on the water, but the portages were proving to be a problem. My scheme for Pat single and me double portaging worked when we were fresh and when the portage was not too difficult. But, when we were tired or the portage rugged we typically dropped some items and made extra trips. The dog, the larger tent, and the extra food and cold weather gear were taking their toll.
Along the way the weather changed dramatically several times. First, it was cold, then clear and a bit warmer; then a morning rain; more clear weather; another rain – this time in the evening; and finally another cold gray spell. Between the larger tent, a new and improved rain tarp, good warm clothing, and a few hot campfires we coped.
There were some other challenges. Three times I pushed a loaded canoe through thigh deep icy rapids. Once we navigated a short stiff rapids upstream. Our first attempt resulted in our canoe being swept sideways downstream; it was a scary moment. But, we made it through the current on our second attempt. One portage ended in a silt laden beaver pond which I have been through several previous times. This time the level of the Beaver pond had dropped at least a foot. The result was a desperate muddy struggle to get the canoe afloat in the pond. By then we were splattered with mud from head to toe.
At the end of each day we collapsed into our sleeping bags all of our energies spent from the day’s efforts. But, we did enjoy numerous loons, sawbills, a pine marten, and a pair of yearling moose along the way.
We landed at Prairie Portage on schedule after our eight night expedition. Later, after a good hot shower we clinked our drink glasses together in an Ely restaurant in celebration of another good wilderness canoe trip. In spite of (or maybe because of) the challenges, difficulties, and discomforts along the way all that remains afterward is the warm glow of accomplishment and an invaluable outdoor experience.